Smiles in Amari

Smiles is an abandoned village situated within the Amari Valley in the Rethymno regional unit of Crete, Greece. It falls under the jurisdiction of the Local Community of Vrysses within the Amari Municipality. Despite its current state of abandonment, Smiles boasts a long history of habitation, evidenced by historical records and the presence of two Byzantine churches within its boundaries. The first official mention of Smiles dates back to 1577, appearing in the works of Fr. Barozzi as “Smilea.” Subsequent Venetian and Ottoman records further document its existence under various names.

The village was inhabited for centuries, but its decline began in the 20th century, culminating in its abandonment in the latter part of the century. The Nazi occupation of Crete during World War II dealt a significant blow to Smiles. In 1944, German forces looted and burned the village and executed three of its residents alongside others from nearby Vrysses. This event, coupled with the broader challenges of rural life in post-war Crete, contributed to the village’s gradual depopulation.

Demographics

Historical records indicate a fluctuating population in Smiles. In 1583, it had an estimated population of 217 based on tax obligations. By 1834, the population comprised one Christian and five Turkish families. In 1881, it was part of the Municipality of Monastiraki with 19 Christian and one Turkish resident. In 1900, it belonged to the Municipality of Panakria with 40 inhabitants. By 1920, it was the seat of its own rural municipality.

The 1928 census recorded 32 inhabitants, further decreasing to 26 in 1932 and 27 in 1951. The 1951 census marks the last official record of Smiles as an inhabited settlement.

Landmarks

• Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary: A Byzantine church adorned with frescoes dating back to the 12th century, according to Gerola. It also features an “arkosolio,” a Venetian tomb typically reserved for the church’s founder.
• Church of Despotis Christos: A cemetery church located near the village center.
• Village Fountain and Aqueduct: Remnants of the village’s infrastructure.

Current Status

Today, Smiles lies in ruins. The Church of the Presentation of the Virgin Mary has suffered significant damage, and parts of it are covered with a nylon sheet for protection. The cemetery and aqueduct are overgrown, the houses are collapsed, and the presence of grazing livestock is evident. Some fruit trees, particularly cherry and sour cherry trees, along with citrus and other fruit orchards, remain as reminders of the Amari region’s agricultural heritage.

Preservation Efforts

While the village itself is abandoned, there are calls for the preservation of its historical landmarks, including the two churches, the aqueduct, and the cemetery. These structures could be protected and maintained as testaments to the history of Smiles.