Rodovani, Kandanos – Selino

A Village Among Ancient Ruins

Rodovani is a village located in the White Mountains of Crete, within the municipality of Kantanos-Selino, Chania regional unit. It sits at an altitude of 500 meters and is situated approximately 59 kilometers southwest of Chania town. Historically part of the Selino province, Rodovani is known for its proximity to the ruins of the ancient city of Elyros and its collection of Byzantine churches.

Historical Overview

Ancient Era: South of Rodovani, at a location called Kefala, lie the extensive remains of the ancient city of Elyros. Elyros flourished during the Hellenistic and Roman periods, serving as the most important city in southwestern Crete. The archaeological site includes remnants of houses, cisterns, and the city’s necropolis. Early travelers and researchers mentioned finding ruins of an ancient theater and aqueduct at the site. Elyros continued to exist into the Byzantine period, when it was the seat of a bishopric, until its destruction by Saracen raiders.

Origin of the Village: The present-day village of Rodovani likely originated in the early Venetian period (1204-1669). The etymology of the name is uncertain. According to D. Salamangas, it derives from the Italian name “Rodovan,” meaning “Illyrian.” Stergios Spanakis notes that the surname “Rodovano” appears in the ducal archives of Chandakas (Heraklion) as early as 1366, suggesting that the village was founded by a Croatian mercenary who may have come to Crete to suppress local revolts. Another theory posits that the name originates from the abundance of roses (“rhoda”) in the area. Professor N.V. Tomadakis suggested a connection to the Slavic word “Radovan,” implying early Slavic settlers, but this is considered less likely due to the village’s relatively late emergence.

Venetian Era: The village is mentioned in Venetian records as “Rhodovani” in the census of Francesco Barozzi in 1577. The Venetian census of 1583 by Castrofylaka lists Rodovani together with the villages of Agrilia and Monochristogerako, having a combined population of 280. Francesco Basilicata also mentions “Rodhovani” in 1630.

Ottoman Era: An Egyptian census in 1834 records “Rodhovani” with a predominantly Christian population of 30 families and one Muslim family. In 1881, Rodovani belonged to the municipality of Paleochora and had a population of 269.

20th Century: In 1920, Rodovani became the seat of its own rural municipality. In 1925, it was designated as the seat of a community, a status it held until 1989 when it was incorporated into the municipality of Pelekanos.

Population Data

Points of Interest

Archaeological Site of Elyros: The ruins of Elyros at Kefala include remnants of buildings, some preserved to a significant height, such as the Roman cisterns and aqueduct. Sections of the ancient wall and theater are also visible. An Ottoman-era “koules” (tower) stands on the top of Kefala hill.

In the center of the archaeological site is a church dedicated to the Virgin Mary (Panagia), built on the ruins of an early Christian basilica. Mosaic floors with plant and animal motifs from the basilica are preserved within the church.

Byzantine Churches: Several Byzantine churches are found in and around Rodovani:

• Panagia Kalomoiriani: A medieval church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, located southwest of the village. Its interior features frescoes, although they were vandalized in 1942. A notable fresco depicts the church’s founder, identified as Georgios Kantanoleon, alongside his wife Moscha. Stefanos Xanthoudidis identified this figure as the leader of the 1527 Kantanoleon Revolt.
• Other Churches: Other Byzantine churches in the area include those dedicated to Agios Georgios, Agios Ioannis, and Agia Paraskevi, although their frescoes are mostly destroyed.

Other Points of Interest:

• Folklore and Legends: Local folklore recounts the story of a villager named Bourdakis who discovered a cave full of statues while working his fields at Kefala. The discovery was initially kept secret, but later, the priest Nikolaos Protopapadakis, who inherited the land, excavated the area and unearthed a marble statue. This statue, now known as the “Philosopher of Elyros,” is housed in the Chania Archaeological Museum.
• Community Association: A community association was founded in Rodovani in 1906, promoting education and social activities. It established a library, gymnasium, and shooting range. The association organized athletic and shooting competitions in 1908-1910 and a scout group in 1926.

Village Key Points

• Historical References: Mentioned in Venetian records as early as 1577. Built near the ancient city of Elyros.
• Location: Chania regional unit, Crete, Greece. 59 km southwest of Chania town, in the White Mountains.
• Altitude: 500 meters above sea level.
• Historical Significance: Located near the significant archaeological site of Elyros. Features several Byzantine churches and a rich history of resistance against foreign powers.
• Current Status: A small, quiet village with a strong connection to its history and traditions.