Palaiochora, Kandanos – Selino

The Nymph of the Libyan Sea

Palaiochora or Paleochora is a coastal town and the seat of the Kantanos-Selino municipality in the Chania regional unit of Crete. With a population of 2,038 (2021 census), it is a popular tourist destination known for its beautiful beaches, relaxed atmosphere, and historical sites. It was historically part of the Selino province.

Geography

Paleochora is situated on a small peninsula that juts out into the Libyan Sea, forming two picturesque bays. This peninsula was formed in antiquity when a powerful earthquake raised the seabed, transforming what was once a small island (where the Venetian fort now stands) into a landmass. The eastern bay has a pier for boat docking, while the western bay boasts a man-made harbor. A lighthouse operates on the islet of Schistonisi at the peninsula’s tip.

Beaches: Paleochora offers a variety of beaches:

• Halikia (Pebble Beach): Located on the eastern side of the peninsula, this beach is characterized by pebbles and offers stunning views of the White Mountains.
• Pachia Ammos (Thick Sand): A sandy beach stretching for approximately one kilometer on the western side, popular for swimming and sunbathing.
• Gyaliskari Beaches: Four kilometers east of Paleochora, near the gorge that starts in the village of Anydri, are three more beaches with large rocks known as “Talos,” named after the mythical guardian of Crete.
• Other Beaches: West of Paleochora are the beaches of Psilos Volakas, Plaki, and Karavopetra. Further west, near the village of Grammeno, is Krios beach, and approximately 18 kilometers west lies the famous Elafonisi beach with its pink sand.

Inland Terrain: North of Paleochora, rolling hills and mountains rise to 300 meters, culminating in a small plain known as the “Kampos of Paleochora.”

Historical Overview

Ancient Era: In ancient times, the area north of Paleochora was home to the city of Kalamidi, about which little is known. It likely served as a harbor for the ancient city of Kandanos.

Venetian Era: Recognizing the strategic importance of the location, the Venetians, under General Marino Gradenigo, built a fortress in 1282 named “Castello Selino,” referencing an older name for the region, possibly related to the wild celery that grew there. The fortress gave its name to the entire area, now known as Selino. The fort was destroyed in 1332 during a revolt against the Venetians but was rebuilt in 1334. It was destroyed again in 1536 by Hayreddin Barbarossa and rebuilt once more in 1595.

Ottoman Era: The Ottomans captured the fortress in 1653 and made some modifications, establishing a settlement within its walls. However, due to ongoing conflicts and destruction, they eventually abandoned the area. When the English traveler Robert Pashley visited in 1834, he found only ruins. Before 1866, the area housed only temporary structures for farmers and their livestock. Paleochora began to re-emerge as a trading center for olive oil, serving as a more convenient export point for the Kandanos region than Chania.

Modern Era: Paleochora was officially recognized as a settlement in the 1881 census. During the Cretan Revolt of 1895-1898, Turkish forces massacred the Christians in Paleochora and then retreated to the fortress, from where they were evacuated by ships of the Great Powers. After Crete’s union with Greece in 1913, Paleochora’s harbor flourished, connecting the region to Piraeus. In 1941, during the German occupation, German forces executed 29 suspected resistance fighters in Paleochora. After World War II, Paleochora developed into a significant tourist center in southern Crete, attracting visitors with its climate, beaches, and historical sites.

Points of Interest

• Venetian Fortress (Castello Selino): The ruins of the Venetian fortress offer insights into the region’s medieval past.
• Beaches: Paleochora boasts a variety of beaches, including the sandy Pachia Ammos and the pebble beach of Halikia.
• Hiking Trails: Several hiking trails, including the European path E4, offer opportunities to explore the surrounding mountains and gorges.
• Archaeological Sites: The area is rich in archaeological sites, including the ruins of the ancient city of Kalamidi and the remnants of the Venetian fortress.
• Byzantine Churches: Several Byzantine churches are located in and around Paleochora.

Village Key Points

• Historical References: Mentioned in Venetian documents as early as the 13th century. Historically a strategic location due to its harbor.
• Location: Chania regional unit, Crete, Greece. 77 km southwest of Chania town, on the southwest coast.
• Historical Significance: Site of a Venetian fortress. Played a role in the Cretan Revolt of 1897. Developed into a major tourist center in the 20th century.
• Current Status: A popular tourist destination with a relaxed atmosphere, known for its beaches, historical sites, and hiking trails.