Matala, Phaistos

Matala

Matala is a coastal village in the community of Pitsidia in the Municipality of Phaistos, located in the Heraklion regional unit on the island of Crete, Greece. It previously belonged to the Pyrgiotissa Province of Heraklion.

History

Matala has been inhabited since ancient times and gained fame as a haven for hippies in the 1960s and 1970s. The village was once a fishing village but now thrives primarily on tourism. In the past, it was part of the Municipal Department of Pitsidia in the Municipality of Tympaki. The distance from Heraklion, the capital of Crete, is 70.6 kilometers.

Matala served as the port for Phaistos during the Minoan period and Gortyn during the Roman era. Traces of the ancient settlement are still visible from the sea. It is believed that Menelaus’ ships were wrecked here (The smooth steep rock into the sea, Odyssey. γ 293), and it is thought to have been the cape of Nysos between the bays of Kommos and Matala.

Venetian documents mention the church of Panagia (La Madonna di Matala), at the entrance of which there is an inscription: “Wash your head and clean your feet and then enter this holy house.”

The Caves

The village’s steep cliffs feature artificial cave-like spaces (and underwater caves) carved into the rock. It is said that these were tombs. However, some have rooms, stairs, windows, and porches, suggesting they were once used as dwellings. The beds resemble those found in Etruscan tombs.

These caves remained empty for thousands of years until the 1960s when wandering hippies discovered and inhabited them for a time. Among those who passed through were Canadian singer-songwriter Joni Mitchell, who immortalized her experience in the song “Carey,” and Greek rock musician Dimitris Poulikakos. During the Greek military junta, at the request of the Metropolitan of Gortyn, tourists were temporarily expelled from the caves. The caves seem to have been permanently closed around 1977.

Location & Setting

Matala is situated 68 km southwest of Heraklion, in the vicinity of the village of Pitsidia, at the point where the fertile plain of Messara meets the arid Asterousia Mountains. It is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Crete and undoubtedly the most famous beach in southern Heraklion. It is synonymous with the carved caves, the hippies of the 1970s, and the legendary Greek film “My Aunt the Hippie” starring Rena Vlachopoulou. It is located near Phaistos, the second most important palace of the Minoans, for which it served as a port. Later, during the Roman period, it became the port of Gortyn.

Matala lies at the exit of a small valley enclosed to the north by the hill of Nissos and to the south by the hill of Kastri, offering beautiful views of the Paximadia islands. In front of the bay, there is a magnificent 300m long sandy beach with fine pebbles and crystal-clear deep waters. The seabed has a slab in the center of the beach, and the waves, when the west wind blows, are very large and impressive. On the north side of the beach, there is a large natural cave from the top of which some very daring people dive. The beach is well-organized, with umbrellas, toilets, showers, a lifeguard, first aid, beach volleyball courts, snack bars, water sports, excursion boats, etc. Also, the part of the beach in front of the Matala campsite is covered by tamarisk trees. In the evenings, the bars and taverns on the beach are filled with people, both locals and foreigners.

The Caves of Matala

The most famous attraction in the area is the carved caves in the soft white porous stone north of the beach, both above and below sea level. The caves were carved thousands of years ago and served as tombs during the Roman and Christian periods. However, many of them have rooms, stairs, beds, or windows, suggesting that at some point they may have also functioned as dwellings.

In the 1960s and 1970s, hippies found paradise in the caves of Matala, gathering in hundreds to express themselves freely, enjoy love, and create. The symbol of the hippies was the two fingers of victory, accompanied by the phrase “Peace Man.” At that time, there was absolutely nothing around except for a small fishing village serving the residents of Pitsidia. Matala became so popular with hippies that it attracted famous personalities such as Joni Mitchell (who has a song about Matala, “Carey”), Bob Dylan, Janis Joplin, Joan Baez, and Cat Stevens.

However, all this came to an abrupt end during the Greek military junta when the Metropolitan of Gortyn and Arcadia expelled the “shameful” hippies. The flower children then scattered to other areas of Crete (Preveli, Plakias, Lentas, Vai, Paleochora, etc.), but most of them went to Ios, continuing their free life. Matala then ceased to have visitors for a long time, and the Archaeological Service sealed the area with the caves and declared it protected.

In recent decades, the area has developed rapidly and bears no resemblance to the atmosphere of that era. Today, you will see thousands of people enjoying swimming on the beach, surrounded by small hotels, and many reminiscing about past moments. The caves are open to the public as an archaeological site.

Along the coast, there are other natural caves that can be visited by boat. Also, many archaeological findings and shipwrecks have been discovered in the surrounding area. The cape north of Matala has been identified by some as Cape Nysos and the point where Menelaus’ ships were wrecked (Odyssey). Southeast of the village, there are the ruins of an ancient temple and, near the beach, a marble sarcophagus. Also, on the other side of the village, on the hill of Kastri, there are the ruins of a fortress, called Koules, and the ruins of a beacon, a point where they lit a fire to transmit signals. Finally, the old church of Panagia emerges from the rock, which was used as a catacomb during the Christian persecutions.

Village: Key Points

• Historical References: Minoan and Roman periods, Venetian documents, 1960s and 1970s hippie era.
• Location: 68 km southwest of Heraklion, Crete, Greece.
• Historical Significance: Served as the port for Phaistos and Gortyn, known for its artificial caves and hippie history.
• Population data over the years:

• Current Status: A popular tourist destination known for its beaches, caves, and historical significance.